Row, Row, Row Your Boat -- All 120 Of You
Just as I start to get grumpy about India -- because it's always honking at me and there is no escaping its vicious mosquitoes -- India pulls something else out of her vast bag of tricks to bring me back into the fold. :o)
Last Saturday, Kerala held its annual Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race -- and what a magnificent show it was! Snake boats are loooooooooong rowboats, 100-158 feet, powered by up to 120 rowers. The length of these things is just astonishing. The event has been called the largest team sport in the world.
This year, 56 boats competed in 14 different events on Punnamada lake in Alleppey (Allapuzha). 18 of the boats were full-length snake boats, while others were smaller boats composed of about 30 rowers each. The winners take about five minutes to cover the 1360 meter distance (a little less than a mile). I've read that the boats go up to 50 kilometers (~30 miles) per hour, although it didn't seem like they were going that fast in these races.
That's all one rowboat!
The event included three all-women teams, rowing in full saree costume (above). No wonder the women's race goes only half the distance of the men's -- I cannot imagine having to row in those tight little saree blouses, and with all those yards of fabric wound around me!
A women's team looks on while the men go by.
Another women's team.
In addition to the oarsmen, each boat included several "cheerleaders" who stood between the rowers and at the back end of the boat. They used drums and whistles to maintain the rowing rhythm and pump up the rowers.
Some teams looked like professional athletes, spiffed up in company-sponsored team t-shirts and baseball caps (above). But many of the teams were simply representatives of local villages who were not athletes. A local man who took me to the race in his small boat proudly pointed out the team that was representing his village.
A thirsty rower takes a last sip before his race.
On the shores of the lake, thousands of spectators, including this group of rowdy boys who formed an impromptu plastic-bottle band, cheered on the rowers.
The winning team in the women's event (above) included several foreign women, the only foreigners in the event. (As far as I know, there were no foreigners in the men's events.) Of course, this brought calls for banning of foreigners from the races.
I'm of two minds on this controversy. On the one hand, foreign involvement in an ancient local event definitely changes the very nature of the event. Many of the villagers who originated this event in the 1900's can no longer afford to compete against the wealthier corporate-sponsored teams, something that will only get worse as more foreigners join in.
On the other hand, if you are going to hold a world-class competition -- which is how this is being billed by Kerala -- you cannot be afraid to compete against the world. Should France have banned American Lance Armstrong from the Tour de France for winning 7 years in a row? Should the U.S. exclude African runners from the Boston Marathon, because they have won the marathon for the last two decades?
What do you think?
I have never seen anything like those boats. Their length is just
astonishing. Do you know if they are supposed to be steady? Wouldn't it
be terrible if one individual tips a bit to the side and all the people
fall out?
Simple solution--allow the non-Indian participants( defined by citizenship)
to have their own team. From the the pictures you've shown, it seems that
the non-Indian women wore sunglasses, gloves and headwraps?, but the Indian
women did not. Just an observation.
Great pictures from an amazing event. I have been wanting to go for that
race for a long time now. As for the foreigner dilemma, it's a tough one. I
guess it depends on whether they want
this to be primarily a cultural event or as you said a world class sporting
event.
Hi! These pics are truly amazing... they captured the intensity of the
moment. I really want to visit Kerala, we are planning to go there at some
point... I think there is a lot to see and discover: backwaters, nature,
wooden houses (huge ones), food, traditional outfits and traditional
dances... really amazing:)
I also noticed that the non-Indian women were wearing gloves and
sunglasses! Once again, Basia you have found another great event to
attend. I always enjoy reading of your adventures and seeing the pictures.
Your pictures capture such a wonderful view of any event you attend.
Welcome back Basia. :) I admit I was a bit crushed reading you last blog
because all of it was so true with relatives coming in every year telling
me, showing pictures of the many things that were much better in the
states.
The rowing has always been so magnificient, as 'onam' nears, the
festivities will only become bigger and brighter. It is wonderful to see
others participating in the competition. If this were made an international
event, it would be another pride for us. But one thing about kerala and
india in general. Though people are very hospitable and friendly to
outsiders, they are always ready to gaurd their own territory. Maybe this
is a lesson we as Indians have learnt the hard way being under years.......
of foreign rule. Now coming to kerala. Keralites are fiercely territorial.
I mean much more than the average Indian. Mess with them in their own place
you are in for a very hard time. Thatz what I hear from friends. Since the
boat race is held as a part of the traditional festivities in kerala, they
may not want outside participation. But an international rowing event would
be lovely. :) The boat bulding for these races is a very costly affair
with each village having a commitee to oversee the boat building. The
minimal cost is 6 lakhs rupees. We need more organization and sponsers so
that the locals dont feel left out.
Dale: They're amazing, aren't they? They seemed pretty steady -- I
didn't see a single one of the 56 boats tip over at any time. But one
problem that they were having, was that with so much splashing from so many
oars, there was a lot of water going inside the boat, and some of the boats
were sinking lower and lower. I heard that one got completely submerged,
though I didn't see it myself.
A friend of mine pointed me to your post. I was at the same event and can
see that your pictures truly capture the event. Congrats.
Thanks Arun. I loved watching this race. I noticed from your blog entry
that you were at the official viewing pavillion. I debated about whether I
should do that. The place I stayed at arranged for a local rower to take me
to the race, and it worked out very well. The viewing pavillion looked
awfully crowded, I don't think I would have enjoyed it as much there.
Can someone provide me with the daily newspaper dated 12th August 2007
talking (not in English) of the Nehru Boat Race because the woman and the
girl on the first page are of my familly and they have lost this paper ?
Thank you very much
For information about nehru trophy boat race 2008 and online ticket booking
visit