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India Ink

Sunderbans: Skipping & Fiddling & Coming Up For Air

posted Wednesday, 20 December 2006

About 80 miles (130 km) south of Kolkata, at the mouth of the Ganges river and spilling over into Bangladesh, is an area called the Sunderbans, home to the Royal Bengal tiger and to the largest mangrove forest in the world.

sunderbans mangrove trees

Mangroves are trees or shrubs that grow in tropical saline wetlands, roots submerged by water or on the adjoining mud flats (above).

sunderbans mangroves

In contrast to the banyan tree, which puts out branches that go downward and turn into roots, mangroves sprout roots that extend up into the air above the water level (above).

sunderbans launch

The only way to get around the Sunderbans is by boat.  I spent several nights on this launch (above) as it meandered around the tiny islands that make up the delta. (Rema -- this is what the boat you will be going on looks like...)

sunderbans crocodile

The Sunderbans is home to the beautiful Bengal tiger, the national animal of both India and Bangladesh.  I was hoping to spot one on our trip, but they are rarely seen.  It was not surprising, since there are only about 250 of them left, spread out over an area of thousands of square kilometers.  We did see this jumbo-sized crocodile (above) snoozing on the banks.

At several points, we transferred to a smaller boat (that's part of our group, above) for brief excursions on land.  Land access is severely restricted however, since this is a protected area where the tigers, crocodiles, and other animals roam freely.

 sunderbans red fiddler crab 

Red fiddler crabs (above) scurried around in the mud. I was especially intrigued by these creatures, because many years ago, I had done a research project on fiddler crabs, although they had been a dull brown color rather than this vibrant red. They are called fiddler crabs because the males have asymmetric claws, one of which is enlarged and makes it seem like the animal is playing a fiddle. (You can watch a demo here...)  During mating, they wave their large claws to attract females.

sunderbans mudskipper

Amphibious mudskippers (above) slithered across the mud.  They are fish, but they spend more time skipping around on the mud than in the water--hence their "fish out of water" nickname. They can even climb trees.

sunderbans fishermen   sunderbans sunrise
Sunset and sunrise on the Sunderbans delta provided some very photogenic moments!

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1. Genilimaa left...
Wednesday, 20 December 2006 3:42 pm :: http://lovikkavantar.blogspot.com

Wow. I think the second is one of your absolute best shots. The light and the colour of the water are creating illusions of mist in the air. It takes a second to realise that there is none! The crab is adorable, what an amazing colour.

Happy holidays!


2. Basia left...
Wednesday, 20 December 2006 4:27 pm

Thanks Genilimaa. That photograph is one of my favorites too. I do an annual calendar of 12 of my favorite shots from the previous year, and that picture is one of them.


3. kevin g left...
Wednesday, 20 December 2006 9:20 pm :: http://missedexit.blog-city.com/

That was so informative, especially with the links. Thanks for sharing this, as I may never get the chance to see a mudskipper up close and personal, or a Bengal tiger in the wild. Looking forward to more interesting and artistic entries.


4. Max left...
Friday, 22 December 2006 9:48 am :: http://www.lifeouteast.blogspot.com

Another time you have left me feeling that I really must make an effort to go to India. Love the photos. Inspiring!


5. rema Subramanian left...
Friday, 22 August 2008 3:13 am

Finally I made it to sunderbans last weekend. I stayed at a resort, instead of the boat. Stayed on land and took day trips. The closest, I came to a tiger was to see its footprints. It was very fresh, must have crossed a few hours earlier. Not sure if I should thank my stars, maybe I would not have lived to tell the tale :D. Three villagers have been killed/injured in the last one month by tigers. Remembered your photographs :). Mine didn't come anywhere close :D.

You seem to be having a great time travelling in your sabatical :) Not only am I following your blogs.. but also posting some comments :D

Cheers Rema


6. Basia left...
Friday, 22 August 2008 8:16 pm

Rema: Hey, great to see you still on here! I was disappointed too, in not seeing a tiger. Yes, I am definitely having a great time on my "sabbatical." But it's all coming to an end soon, unfortunately...the real world intrudes...


7. rema left...
Monday, 13 October 2008 12:12 am

I finally made it to Sunderbans in August.. while I did try to click a few pics...none of them did justice.. forget about being as vivid as your pics :D. I also made a trip to NZ.. trying to keep pace with your travels. LOL

All the best for your new job!.. I see wall street in one of the pics.... don't tell me that you have joined one :). Is this also in training?

Keep in touch!